Garlic is one of the most rewarding crops for home gardeners. With its bold flavor, medicinal properties, and long shelf life, it’s no wonder garlic holds a special place in the garden. But one crucial question often stumps even seasoned growers: What’s the best time to harvest garlic?
Harvest too early, and the bulbs will be small and underdeveloped. Wait too long, and the cloves might split or rot. Knowing when and how to harvest garlic is essential for maximizing both flavor and storage life.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll break down the garlic growing timeline, regional harvesting calendars, key signs your garlic is ready, and post-harvest tips—all tailored for beginners and backyard growers alike.
Understanding Garlic Growth Stages
How Long Does Garlic Take to Grow? A Simple Timeline for Gardeners
Garlic isn’t a “plant and forget” crop—it requires patience. From planting to harvest, the average garlic-growing cycle spans 7 to 9 months.
Here’s a basic garlic growth timeline:
| Stage | Timeframe | What’s Happening |
| Planting | Fall (Oct–Nov) or Spring (Feb–Mar in mild zones) | Cloves are planted, begin rooting |
| Winter Dormancy | Dec–Feb | Roots grow underground; minimal top growth |
| Spring Growth | Mar–May | Leaves develop; bulbs begin forming |
| Bulb Formation | May–July | Bulbs swell, outer wrappers form |
| Harvest | June–Aug | Bulbs mature and are ready to harvest |
Garlic planted in the fall typically matures faster and produces larger bulbs due to stronger root development before winter.
From Planting to Harvest: What Happens During Garlic’s Growth Cycle
Garlic goes through several phases:
- Root Establishment: After planting, garlic develops strong roots in the cool soil.
- Top Growth: In early spring, green leaves shoot up, fueled by stored energy in the clove.
- Bulb Initiation: As daylight increases (after spring equinox), the plant redirects energy to forming a bulb.
- Maturation: The bulb matures underground as leaves begin to yellow—a key signal harvest is approaching.
Each phase is critical. A disruption in water, nutrients, or temperature can affect bulb size and quality.
Hardneck vs. Softneck Garlic: Does It Affect When You Should Harvest?
Absolutely. The variety of garlic you plant—hardneck or softneck—affects when and how you harvest:
- Hardneck Garlic
- Produces scapes (flower stalks).
- Matures earlier (mid–late June).
- Grows well in colder climates.
- Easier to gauge harvest due to visible scape and leaf clues.
- Produces scapes (flower stalks).
- Softneck Garlic
- No scapes.
- Matures slightly later (early–mid July).
- Better for warmer climates.
- Longer shelf life.
- No scapes.
💡 Tip: Scapes can be used as a harvest clue and culinary bonus. Cut them once they curl to redirect energy to bulb development.
Knowing the Best Time to Harvest Garlic
What’s the Best Time to Harvest Garlic? A Seasonal Guide for Home Gardeners
For most home gardeners in the U.S. and UK, garlic is ready for harvest between late June and early August, depending on the planting date and variety.
Here’s a general rule of thumb:
| Region | Planting | Harvest |
| USDA Zone 3–5 | October | Mid-July |
| USDA Zone 6–7 | October | Late June–Early July |
| USDA Zone 8–9 | November–February | June |
| UK | October–November | Late June–Mid July |
You’ll know you’re close when the lower leaves begin yellowing while the top leaves remain green.
Garlic Harvest Calendar: When to Pick Garlic in Each Growing Zone
Use this quick reference based on growing zones:
- Zones 3–5 (Colder Climates): Expect harvest mid to late July.
- Zones 6–7: Watch for yellowing leaves around early July.
- Zones 8–9: Garlic is typically ready by mid to late June.
- UK Climate Zones: Garlic often reaches maturity between late June and mid-July.
👉 Note: Local weather plays a major role. A hot spring may accelerate growth; cool, wet weather may delay it.
Is Your Garlic Ready to Harvest? 7 Visual Signs to Watch For
Use these visual and tactile clues to determine garlic maturity:
- 5–6 green leaves remain (indicates several protective bulb layers).
- Lower leaves turn yellow or brown (natural dieback).
- Soil feels dry and firm, not soggy.
- Bulbs feel firm and full when gently probed underground.
- Cloves look defined, not one solid bulb.
- Hardneck scapes have completed their curl.
- Outer wrapper remains intact—not splitting.
Harvesting at this stage ensures maximum size and shelf life.
How to Tell When Garlic Is Mature: Leaf Clues You Shouldn’t Ignore
Leaf health is one of the best garlic ripeness indicators:
- Each green leaf equals a bulb wrapper.
- When only 5–6 leaves are green, that means 5–6 layers protect the bulb—ideal for storage.
- If most leaves have browned, the cloves may split and spoil early.
📌 Pro Tip: Mark your planting date and count ~220 days forward. That’s your estimated harvest window.
Should You Wait for the Leaves to Turn Brown Before Harvesting Garlic?
Not entirely. If all the leaves have turned brown, it’s too late—the protective wrappers may have decayed, exposing cloves to disease.
Aim to harvest when:
- The bottom 1/3 of leaves are brown.
- The top 2/3 are still green.
This balance protects the bulb while ensuring full maturity.
Signs Your Garlic Is Ready
Top Indicators Your Garlic Is Ready to Be Pulled from the Ground
Still unsure? Look for these tell-tale signs:
- Scape has straightened out (for hardneck types).
- Soil cracks slightly around the base.
- Bulbs look plump when gently unearthed.
- Wrappers are dry and papery.
- Leaves have reduced sap when cut.
When in doubt, test-harvest one bulb. If the cloves are well defined and wrappers intact—go for it!
How Many Green Leaves Should Garlic Have Before Harvest?
The magic number: 5 to 6 green leaves.
Each green leaf contributes to a bulb layer. More than 6 may mean immature bulbs. Fewer than 4 could mean the outer wrappers are breaking down, making storage harder.
Monitor the lowest leaves. When they turn brown and the top leaves remain green—harvest time is near.
What Happens If You Harvest Garlic Too Early or Too Late?
- Too Early:
- Small bulbs
- Thin wrappers
- Reduced flavor intensity
- Poor storage capability
- Small bulbs
- Too Late:
- Bulbs split
- Outer skin rots faster
- Risk of mold
- Hard to clean and cure
- Bulbs split
✅ Solution: Watch your garlic weekly once leaf dieback begins. Don’t wait for full browning.
Garlic Bulbs Splitting in the Ground? What That Means and What to Do
Split garlic bulbs are a sign you’ve waited too long. The cloves have expanded so much that the wrappers can’t hold them anymore.
Causes:
- Over-maturity
- Excess rain before harvest
- Inconsistent watering
What to do:
- Harvest immediately
- Use split bulbs within 1–2 weeks
- Don’t try to cure or store them long-term
Harvesting and Handling Tips
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Harvest Garlic Without Damaging Bulbs
- Stop watering 1–2 weeks before harvest.
- Loosen soil with a garden fork (never pull by the stalk).
- Lift bulbs gently by prying beneath them.
- Do not wash. Brush off excess dirt only.
- Keep stalks and leaves attached—they help with curing.
Avoid bruising or snapping stalks—damaged garlic won’t store well.
The Right Way to Cure Garlic After Harvest for Long-Term Storage
Curing allows garlic to dry properly, extending shelf life up to 6–9 months.
Steps for curing garlic:
- Hang or lay bulbs in a well-ventilated, shaded, dry space.
- Ideal curing temperature: 60–70°F with low humidity.
- Cure for 2–4 weeks until stems and wrappers are crisp.
- Once cured:
- Trim roots to 1/4 inch.
- Cut stalks 1 inch above bulb (for softneck, braid if desired).
- Store in mesh bags, baskets, or paper bags.
- Trim roots to 1/4 inch.
Never store garlic in plastic—it traps moisture and promotes rot.
Should You Wash Garlic After Harvesting? What Experts Recommend
No, do not wash freshly harvested garlic. Washing introduces moisture and increases the risk of rot during curing.
Instead:
- Gently brush off soil.
- Let any clinging dirt dry out, then remove it during trimming.
Only clean garlic once fully cured and only with a dry cloth.
Common Harvesting Mistakes That Can Ruin Your Garlic’s Shelf Life
Avoid these pitfalls:
- Harvesting too late: Leads to splitting, poor wrappers.
- Washing bulbs: Encourages mold.
- Storing in plastic: Traps humidity.
- Curing in sunlight: Causes sunburn and flavor loss.
- Handling roughly: Damaged bulbs spoil faster.
✅ Remember: Gentle handling + proper curing = garlic that lasts for months.
Final Thoughts
Timing is everything when it comes to garlic. From the first green shoots of spring to the browning leaves of summer, your garlic will tell you when it’s ready—if you know what to look for.
To recap, here are the essentials:
- Harvest garlic when 5–6 green leaves remain.
- Watch for signs like dry lower leaves and defined cloves.
- Cure bulbs properly for long-lasting storage.
- Avoid common mistakes like washing or overexposure to sunlight.
FAQs:
1. How do I know when garlic is ready to harvest?
Garlic is ready when the bottom leaves start turning brown while the top 5–6 leaves remain green. This indicates the bulbs are mature but still have enough protective layers for storage.
2. Can I harvest garlic if the leaves are all green?
It’s not recommended. All-green leaves usually mean the bulbs are still immature. Harvesting too early can result in small cloves and poor storage quality.
3. What happens if I wait too long to harvest garlic?
Overripe garlic may split open in the ground, lose its protective wrappers, and spoil faster in storage. Late harvesting also increases the risk of disease and bulb rot.
4. Do hardneck and softneck garlic have different harvest times?
Yes. Hardneck garlic typically matures earlier (late June to early July), while softneck varieties are harvested a bit later (mid to late July), depending on your climate.
5. Should garlic be washed after harvesting?
No. Freshly harvested garlic should not be washed as moisture can lead to mold during curing. Instead, gently brush off soil and cure the bulbs in a dry, shaded area.